Monday, January 21, 2008

Inland Empire

This weekend, we took a roundabout way to Palm Springs. “Roundabout way” means (for me) taking frequent detours to check out some familiar filming locations in California's vast "Inland Empire."

Instead of driving straight through San Bernardino County, we veered north to Victorville on the southwestern edge of the Mojave Desert. Victorville was established in 1895, and the downtown area grew up around historic Route 66 (now 7th Street) after it was constructed in the 1920s. Though primarily known as a shooting location for westerns in the 40s and 50s, Victorville also served as a memorable setting during the heyday of Hollywood space sagas. Legendary director Jack Arnold (“Creature from the Black Lagoon,” "This Island Earth,” “The Incredible Shrinking Man”) shot the opening scene of “It Came from Outer Space” (1953) here. The UFO flew (in 3-D, no less) over the rocks on the east side of the Narrows, near the 1920s Rainbow Bridge, and crash landed in Old Town Victorville.

A few miles down the road, just east of the neighboring town of Apple Valley, Arnold staged another scene for “It Came from Outer Space” (the police barricade), as well as the optical illusion from his 1955 film “Tarantula.” The first time we see the titular beast (“Crawling terror 100 feet high!”), it is crawling over the rocks at Dead Man’s Point. “Tarantula” was one of the few early films in the “nature runs amok” subgenre that didn’t place blame for its monstrosities on nuclear experimentation… but I imagine that the desert setting (not far from military test grounds for aerial bombing) made more than a few viewers read the film as a warning about the unknowable dangers of entering the atomic age. Myself, I’ve always wondered why the military wouldn’t simply use their new bombs to take out the hundred-foot-tall spider. After all, where could he hide?

Driving east from Apple Valley, the desert becomes more desolate and more sinister. Lucerne Valley and Johnson Valley are the only settlements along Highway 18 (ironically known as Happy Trails Road) for nearly 50 miles. One need not spend much time staring out the windows at the seemingly abandoned houses to draw the conclusion that people who live here are a different breed. It takes serious physical and mental stamina to endure the harsh climate of the Mojave Desert, let alone the isolation. Wes Craven must have been a bit unnerved by his first trip through Lucerne Valley, because this is where he shot his 1977 cult film “The Hills Have Eyes” – about a family of cave-dwelling cannibals who assault a family of urban vacationers. To survive in this environment, the urban family must become absolutely primal.

Further south, we took another detour to visit Pioneertown – a full-fledged ghost town, built in 1946 as a live-in shooting location. The pictures say it all. This is one of the coolest attractions you’re likely to come across in the desert. It still houses several residents, and continues to serve as a filming location. According to The 80s Rewind Movie website, Pioneertown was also used as a shooting location for parts of Craven’s ill-conceived sequel “The Hills Have Eyes Part 2” (1985). That website berates the film with far more panache than I could, so I won’t bother to comment on the film itself. I will comment, however, on one similarity between the original and its 2007 remake…

Both feature some very creepy mines. While the remake was shot in Morocco (for $$$ reasons), the original “Hills Have Eyes Part 2” was shot in nearby Joshua Tree National Park. According to Harry Medved’s trusty tour guide “Hollywood Escapes,” the main house is in the Desert Queen Ranch, accessible only via guided tour. No tour guide is necessary, however, to visit Desert Queen Mine. (I should note that Medved’s book is a little misleading. He places the mine near Hidden Valley Campground, west of the Park Boulevard / Key’s View Road junction. In fact, the dirt road leading to the mine is east of the junction on Park Boulevard, between the Hall of Horrors and Skull Rock. Sounds appropriately ominous, doesn’t it?) The mine shafts were all barricaded… but, in at least one case, a very thin person could easily slip inside. Less than a hundred feet into the mouth of the cave, you’d find yourself in total darkness…

One last stop brought us full circle on our day trip. According to Medved, Cap Rock (at the junction of Park Boulevard and Key’s View Road) is where rockers Gram Parsons (of The Byrds) and Keith Richards (The Rolling Stones) reportedly got stoned and watched for UFOs. Parsons was so affected by the experience that he asked to be cremated on this spot. He wasn’t… but it still makes for a good story. It seems that everyone out here is either watching the night skies or burrowing into the earth. Maybe we should blame the overbearing desert sun for producing a certain strain of madness…


Old Town Victorville

The Narrows (Apple Valley side)

Tarantula

Dead Man’s Point

Lucerne Valley



According to Harry Medved, “The Hills Have Eyes” was shot in the hills behind this "settlement" on Barstow Road in Lucerne Valley. If that's true, the "call box" on the side of the road is strategically placed.

Mojave Desert (looking east from Barstow Road)

Pioneertown




Jerry Garcia is alive and well and living in Pioneertown. Actually, we did meet a serious Deadhead here. After following the Grateful Dead for five years, he settled here and now makes beautiful glass jewelry.

Desert Queen Mine



Cap Rock

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Alternative to what...?


A few weeks ago, my friend Ben sent me a copy of Milk It!: Collected Musings on the Alternative Music Explosion of the 90’s by Chicago Sun-Times music critic Jim DeRogatis (DaCapo, 2003). I found the book to be very uneven – as “collected musings” tend to be – but I enjoyed it because it got me thinking about the music that defined my high school and college years.

The book begins with a lengthy section on Nirvana, the band that ignited the commercial explosion of “alternative” music. It ends with Britney Spears, the pop princess whose inevitable meltdown has reached a level of humiliation that even the notoriously harsh DeRogatis never dared to imagine. In between, there are articles on dozens of acts that seem to have hastened the death of rock as well as dozens that offer evidence of its timeless vitality. Any serious fan of music will find statements to agree and disagree with. But even when you think the author is full of shit, you can’t argue with his passion. He clearly lived the music, rather than simply intellectualizing it. Ultimately, it’s how the music makes him feel that determines whether or not he likes it.

As it should be.

I remember the day in April 1994 when MTV News announced that Kurt Cobain had killed himself. From day one, critics and veejays presented it as some kind of “statement” about the frustrations of Generation X. I can’t say whether Nirvana fans felt the same way, because I wasn’t really a Nirvana fan at the time. Unlike the band's most loyal followers, I hadn’t tracked them from their humble Seattle origins to iconic status. I was, if anything, a half-hearted hanger-on. I owned copies of the chart-busting albums “Nevermind” (1991) and “In Utero” (1993)… but I preferred Pearl Jam. This, I suppose, is the big debate for those who grew up with alternative music - Nirvana or Pearl Jam?

In his book, DeRogatis argues that Nirvana drew on the punk mentality while the Pearl Jam sound stemmed from classic rock acts like The Doors and The Who. The implication is that Nirvana is truer to what DeRogatis defines as the essence of rock n roll: youthful rebellion. I don’t disagree… but maybe I just wasn’t that rebellious. As individuals we’re drawn to what we’re drawn to. Our taste in music is an instinct, not a decision. Personally, I was a more captivated by Pearl Jam’s debut album “Ten” (1991), particularly the B-side, and the follow-up “Vs.” (1993).

I later discovered The Doors and The Who for myself… not to mention Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd, which became favorites. That said, I suppose it’s clear where my loyalties lie. I’m not coming from the same place that DeRogatis is coming from. I don’t have the same contempt for nostalgia that he has. According to the author, this distinguishes me as more of a Generation Y listener than a Generation X listener, though technically I’m right on the cusp between the two.

Still, I find myself in agreement with many of the author’s critical assessments – Courtney Love: clownish, Smashing Pumpkins: pretentious, The Stone Roses: unimaginative, Bjork: enchanting, A Tribe Called Quest: intriguing, Brian Eno: genius. While I may disagree with his take on the Stone Temple Pilots (“pathetic Pearl Jam wannabes” – which, admittedly, is not as offensive to a Pearl Jam fan as it is to DeRogatis), I can’t imagine anyone arguing with the author’s contempt for boring frat rockers like Hootie and the Blowfish or glorified hate-mongers like N.W.A.

What really strikes me about this book are the bands that DeRogatis neglects to mention – bands that define the 90s for me. Maybe these musicians were not as popular in Chicago (DeRogatis’s home)? Maybe he just wasn’t as interested in them? Whatever the case, it got me thinking about where I would have placed my own focus in such a retrospective…

DeRogatis devotes a chapter to rising female musicians like L7, Liz Phair and Tori Amos. In my corner of the world (Charlottesville, VA), Ani DiFranco was the reigning queen of the post-feminist girl bands. Several of the young women I knew in high school seemed to be forming their personal identities in the wake of DiFranco’s music. I absorbed the music in a desperate effort to understand the opposite sex. Women still remained a mystery to me… but I learned to appreciate DiFranco’s acoustic guitar work and the emotional honesty of her lyrics.

For all her rebelliousness, DiFranco was just a step away from the radio-friendly Alanis Morrisette, whose 1995 debut album (the best-selling debut album by a female artist in the U.S.) proved that legion of fans were ready for something like Sarah McLachlan’s Lilith Fair. Jim DeRogatis talks at length about the over-commercialized Lollapalooza and the under-commercialized Woodstock ‘94, but he says nothing about Lilith... which, as far as I could tell, was a commercial and artistic success.

Of course, the girl bands were never really my thing. I gravitated toward bands like Depeche Mode, Nine Inch Nails, Mazzy Star, and Led Zeppelin. I was a little behind the curve in discovering Depeche Mode, who had peaked with their 1990 album “Violator” – an ominous soundscape that would have worked perfectly as the soundtrack for a gothic horror film. Nine Inch Nails manipulated electronic sounds to similar, eerie effect – but while Depeche Mode remained mostly ominous, NIN escalated the music to full assault on “The Downward Spiral” (1995). Mazzy Star’s first album (“So Tonight That I Might See” – 1993) had more of a post-traumatic vibe. Led Zeppelin, in my estimation, ran the gamut. That was my window into the world of classic rock.

It was not until a few years later that I came to appreciate England’s contribution to the early 90s music scene – the dream-pop “shoegazer” bands. DeRogatis focuses on My Bloody Valentine and Ride; I preferred Slowdive (1991 – 1995), Lush (1992 – 1996), Portishead (1994 – 1997), and Massive Attack (who peaked with the album “Mezzanine” in 1998). My Bloody Valentine’s Bilinda Butcher offers an anecdote that helps explain the ethereal sound of these bands (usually soft vocals drenched in guitar feedback): “Often when we do vocals, it’s seven-thirty in the morning; I’ve usually just fallen asleep and have to be woken up to sing. I’m usually trying to remember what I’ve been dreaming about when I’m singing.” Like most people, I tended to be nocturnal when I was in college – so this music was a natural soundtrack for that particular place and time (1997 - 2000).

By 1997, as DeRogatis points out, all ears were focused on electronic music – predicted to be "the next big thing." Electronic music found its strongest current in England; its earliest success stories were extensions of the experimental art rock of musicians like Kraftwerk and Brian Eno. To DeRogatis, electronic music is little more than a footnote in 90s alternative music – he was fascinated by Aphex Twin and The Orb, but lost interest in the whole scene when bands like The Chemical Brothers and Prodigy rose to prominence. He never drank the kool-aid. But I did.

I vividly remember the experience of listening to a few breakthrough electronic albums for the first time: Orbital’s “brown album” (1993), Underworld’s debut “dubnobasswithmyheadman” (1993), Moby’s “Everything is Wrong” (1995), and DJ Shadow’s “Endroducing” (1996). The music on these albums was as much a part of my life as the people and places I saw everyday – the beats and rhythms were burned into my brain. By the time I actually went to England and discovered trance DJs like Paul Oakenfold, Ferry Corstein and Paul van Dyk, electronic music was running out of juice. Since then, I have found new popular music to be, for the most part, anti-climactic.

Milk It! ends with an essay entitled “What’s Up with Generation Y?”, written just two weeks after 9/11. In it, the author provides his own definition of Generation Y: “seventy million people born between 1980 and 1996” who, prior to 9/11, existed in “a period of unprecedented prosperity and a cocoon of creature comforts the likes of which we’ve never seen before.” He predicts that this generation will respond in one of three ways to 9/11: (1) They will realize that “their current opiates… (Britney Spears, the Backstreet Boys, Total Request Live, Limp Biskit, Survivor, Sony Playstation, etc.) were nothing but placebos,” and subsequently rebel against “the mega-corporations that are trying to spread consumerism to every corner of the globe, killing Western culture and turning us all into the equivalent of those cannibalistic zombies traipsing through the shopping mall in Dawn of the Dead”; (2) They will embrace the “ubiquitous television commentators’ jingoism, applaud the bloodlust of the hawks,” and continue to spend, spend, spend because it’s the patriotic thing to do; (3) They will slowly return to business as usual, without giving much serious thought to the first two alternatives.

I haven’t bought much music or attended many concerts since 9/11, but I’ve never really thought of 9/11 and my taste in music in terms of cause-and-effect. The truth is that I also haven’t bought a lot of fiction since 9/11. I haven’t gone to the movies much since 9/11. This is not because I decided to stop spending… but because, in 2001, I ceased to be a student with disposable income. Since 2001, I have not been in the target demographic for the music industry. They are now pursuing the younger members of Generation Y.

If I had to assess how the youth generation has responded to 9/11, I’d probably lean toward the third possibility that DeRogatis presents. Sure, the music industry has fallen on hard times in the last few years – but I think that has more to do with changes in technology as with a change in mindset. Although the youth of America is inheriting a massive national debt for a war that was deviously sold to us as a response to 9/11, it's still “business as usual.” While the national debt approaches the $500,000,000,000 mark with no end in sight, we remain reasonably calm. The potential rage – for the ruination of the economic welfare of our future, for the repetition of some of our country’s most embarrassing historical blunders, for the government’s shameless trampling of our nation’s founding principles – has been kept in check.

Or am I wrong? Am I simply missing the signs of a major awakening of social and political consciousness? I wonder what’s going on in high school and college classrooms these days… and if there is a significant “alternative” music scene brewing right now while the industry struggles to get back to business as usual…

DeRogatis characterizes great music as restless and rebellious in nature. I often make the same argument for great horror films. They question authority, break taboos, and offer alternatives to the status quo. They are agents of change.

Right now, we could use some great music.