Maddrey Misc.
thoughts and images from the semi-fictional city of Los Angeles
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Los Angeles History, Part 2
My family is visiting L.A. this week, which makes me wonder: How long do I have to live here before I feel like more than a visitor myself? I didn’t really get comfortable in southeastern Virginia until I started learning about the local history… so I’ve already started digging into the history of Southern California, hoping that this will make me feel more grounded. My first history guide is an excellent (and, sadly, out-of-print) book by Carey McWilliams called Southern California: An Island on the Land.
McWilliams moved to Southern California during the population influx of the 1920s. For decades, “boosters” had been selling the image of Southern California as a permanent vacation spot… but it was not love at first sight for the author: “When I first arrived in Los Angeles, I hated, as so many other people have hated, the big, sprawling, deformed character of the place. I loathed the crowds of dull and stupid people that milled around the downtown sections dawdling and staring, poking and pointing, like villagers visiting a city for the first time. I found nothing about Los Angeles to like and a great many things to detest. Without benefit of chart or guide or compass, I had to discover the charm of the city and the region for myself (one reason, doubtless, why I like it so much today).”
McWilliams does his best to encapsulate the culture of the region – plowing right over the mythologized history of the Spanish missionaries, and exploring instead the conflicts between the natives and the Franciscans, Spanish rancheros and Mexican “immigrants,” pioneers and tourists, the wealthy and the working class. He argues that, just as Southern California is geographically isolated from the rest of the United States (making it an “island on the land”), many different communities have isolated themselves within the region (creating islands within an island). Consequently, there is not one Los Angeles; there are many: “Within the city limits of Los Angeles today are numerous areas that have many of the characteristics of distinct communities: definite boundaries, a common business or service district, and specific population characteristics, such as age levels, sex distribution, and so forth. There are also numerous ethnic colonies or communities. But the problem has always been to define the larger unit to which these communities are theoretically related. Where does all this bustling life center?”
Perhaps more to the point: What is it that truly characterizes the region, and continues to draw people to Southern California? I suppose I’ve always assumed that the main attraction is the entertainment industry – and, undoubtedly, this has been a major factor since the 1920s. Kevin Starr, author of Inventing the Dream: California through the Progressive Era, writes that Hollywood was born out of the Anti-Trust movement. Rogue filmmakers who didn’t want to give a portion of their filmmaking profits to the Edison Trust came to Los Angeles because it was close to Mexico, and far from East Coast lawyers. Starr writes: “Hollywood – as a concept, as an industry, as a mythic place – developed from an embryonic acting troupe pursuing its ancient bohemian lifestyle of itinerant performance, hostelry life, intrigue (sexual and otherwise), and improvisational creativity under the disciplining guidance of its troupe leader, in this case thirty-year-old David Wark Griffith, who, whether he knew it or not at the time, was setting in motion a process that would eventually bring the production of American film once and for all to Southern California.”
Within a few short years, a cultural symbiosis developed between the filmmaking industry and the West Coast Dream that boosters had been selling for forty years. D.W. Griffith, the godfather of American cinema, embraced the local history and landscape in more than a hundred films made between 1910 and 1916, culminating with the epic Intolerance – for which Griffith’s crew constructed a replica of ancient Babylon at the corner of Sunset and Hollywood boulevards.
Intolerance was a commercial flop, ruining Griffith’s career, and the three-story set was deemed a fire hazard: “The set, after all, despite its masterly design, was more illusion than architecture. Even as Griffith delayed its dismantlement, the set began to crumble. Soon weeds were growing in the place of Belshazzar and Hall’s mighty elephants were trumpeting over torn reliefs, collapsed stairs, damaged statues, walls where wood and cheap gypsum showed through a semblance of marble.” Sounds like the setting of a Nathanael West novel, doesn’t it? Or maybe Hunter Thompson: Hollywood was a creature too weird to live and too rare to die. This larger-than-life setting gave rise to larger-than-life celebrities, the embodiment of the 20th century American Dream: Theda Bara, Mary Pickford, Lillian Gish, Lionel Barrymore, Douglas Fairbanks, and Charlie Chaplin.
By 1926, “Hollywood” was the fifth largest industry in the United States. It continues to dominate today, as a psychological influence as much as a financial one. But it’s interesting to note that the “boom years” in California began forty years before the film industry moved in. One historian writes that the mass exodus to Southern California in the 1880s was “based on the simple fact that hereabouts the good lord has created conditions of climate and health and beauty such as can be found nowhere else, in this or any other land, and until every acre of this earthly paradise is occupied, the influx will continue.” McWilliams agrees – he delights in pointing out the ridiculous exaggerations of early settlers about Brobdingnagian fruits and vegetables, and the restorative powers of the climate… but it seems as if he’s just as captivated by the landscape as any tourist:
“When the sunlight is not screened and filtered by the moisture-laden air, the land is revealed in all its semi-arid poverty. The bald, sculptured mountains stand forth in a harsh and glaring light. But let the light turn soft with ocean mist, and miraculous changes occur. The bare mountain ranges, appallingly harsh in contour, suddenly become wrapped in an entrancing ever-changing loveliness of light and shadow; the most commonplace objects assume a matchless perfection of form; and the land itself becomes a thing of beauty. The color of the land is in the light and the light is somehow artificial and controlled. Things are not killed by the sunlight, as in a desert; they merely dry up. A desert light brings out the sharpness of points, angles, and forms. But this is not a desert light nor is it tropical for it has neutral tones. It is Southern California light and it has no counterpart in the world.”
Hollywood pioneers were just as entranced. Director Cecil B. DeMille writes: “To the north rose primitive, desert mountains, unchanged for centuries; green in February and March, but burning a russet brown through the arid summer heat. A few steps outside of town and you were in desert country. Sitting in the patio of your home after dinner you could hear the coyotes howl as if they, too, felt the romance of the place.”
My girlfriend says that Southern California already feels like home to her – that she is no longer enchanted by the sight of the mountains on the north side of the San Fernando Valley. But I’m still awe-struck by the unreality of this landscape. I’ve heard it suggested that it takes anywhere from five to ten years for the land to make a native out of a newcomer. Longtime residents say that a person only becomes a true native once the novelty has worn off. At that point, a person may begin to take for granted the unreality of the landscape. The scenery can even become tiresome. Ditto for the “monotonous” weather.
There are those who say that the culture of Los Angeles, at its worst, can be equally tiresome. McWilliams talks about the “informality of existence” in Los Angeles, explaining that “social neuroticism is a distinct phenomenon” here. This is hardly surprising for any city where so many people from different parts of the world are gathered. Since the 1880s, expansion has been the defining business of the region and, in order to maintain its allure as a new and exciting place to live, Los Angeles is constantly re-inventing itself. It’s not just the home of the Hollywood dream machine – the city is a product of the dream machine. Before I moved out here, a friend who spent several years here suggested that it’s important to feel “grounded” somewhere else… because it’s impossible to get grounded in L.A. I think it’s safe to assume that many people are unable to get beneath the slippery surface. It’s easy to drift in Los Angeles – easy to get lost.
But among those who stay long enough, there are some who begin to see the subtleties that define the region, and fall in love with them. Take, for example, McWilliams’ observations about the weather: “Most people believe that there are only two seasons in Southern California: ‘the wet’ and ‘the dry.’… Actually, Southern California has two springs, two summers, and a season of rain.” It breaks down like this: The first spring – the premature spring – follows closely on the early rains in late fall. In November, the dry season begins to bear down. Then come the first rains – “the little spring,” “like a baptism.” These are followed by the “real rains” in January, February in March. A “second spring” or “aborted summer” comes in April, followed by the desert winds. Afterwards, June is cool and gray, with day-long mists. July presents the full blaze of summer, followed by the oppressive, desert-hot spell of August. Then the whole thing starts over.
It’s raining today in Los Angeles – a rare lazy day for reflection. So far, it’s not difficult for me to understand why some people think of Los Angeles as an island, a world apart. The city itself is impossible to define. That makes it potentially exhausting... but endlessly fascinating
Thursday, January 25, 2007
Mixed Results
Yesterday, USA Today ran an article on a new phenomenon popularized by YouTube. It began in 2005, when Robert Ryang, a 26-year-old movie editor from New York, remixed scenes from Stanley Kubrick's "The Shining," to create a trailer that sold the movie as a family melodrama. Since then, hundreds of remixed movie trailers have been posted on the Internet. Below are a few of my favorites: "Mary Poppins" as a horror movie, "Back to the Future" as a gay cowboy movie (yes, Brokeback jokes are a little tired... but I find this one particularly amusing because it undermines one of my favorite childhood films), and a fusion of "Toy Story" and "Requiem for a Dream" (which is sure to undermine someone else's childhood memories...).
If you want to kill a few more hours of your life, there's a database of remixed trailers on www.thetrailermash.com.
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Saturday, January 20, 2007
Apparent Silence
This is the first music video from The Distants (L's brother's band). For those who are interested, they're playing with Veruca Salt at Safari Sam's in Hollywood this coming Friday. They also cover "Killing Moon" by Echo and the Bunnymen on the new "Blood and Chocolate" soundtrack, in record stores on Tuesday.
Friday, January 19, 2007
Underworld
Lately, I've been indulging my addiction to two things: YouTube and mid-1990s techno. This is another addict's homage to the band Underworld, using images from the 1982 documentary "Koyaanisquatsi." The title is a Hopi Indian word for "life out of balance." Great documentary, great song.
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Thoughts for Desperate Writers
"Stories are for joining the past to the future. Stories are for those late hours in the night when you can't remember how you got from where you were to where you are. Stories are for eternity, when memory is erased, when there is nothing to remember except the story."
- Tim O'Brien, The Things They Carried
Saturday, January 13, 2007
The House Between
It’s been over two years since I met John Muir, known to pop culture enthusiasts as John Kenneth Muir – “not because I’m pretentious,” he explains, “although I am pretentious,” but so that people don’t confuse him with the renowned naturalist who shares his name.
John was a featured guest at the inaugural MonsterFest convention, organized by Rob Floyd and Jim Blanton at the Chesapeake (VA) Public Library in October 2004. At that time, he had completed 15 published books on television and film, including critical assessments of John Carpenter and Wes Craven that I read while researching my own book on American horror films (published in April '04).
I would not have introduced myself to John Muir as a writer, because John was a real writer. My book (as one reviewer for Video Watchdog noted) was little more than a college thesis; John was already setting a new standard for pop culture studies. Nevertheless, Jerry Harrell – who was at the convention in full “Dr. Madblood” regalia – did not hesitate to introduce me as a writer... and John and his wife Kathryn could not have responded with more enthusiasm and encouragement for my goal of someday turning a writing hobby into a career. I was thrilled to meet someone so down-to-earth who had managed to do just that.
A six-member cast and an eight-member crew converged on
If any single member of the team hadn’t been fully engaged, the whole thing would have come crashing down. But everyone we needed was there, and giving 110%. By the second day, we were moving forward at full speed. By the fourth day, we were circumventing production problems with relative ease. (Many of the problems stemmed from our lighting equipment, which didn’t weather the 16-hour shoot days quite as well as the actors and crew). By the fifth day, everyone was comfortable enough for wild improvisation – making for a great episode that renewed everyone’s energy for the home stretch. (Truth be told: The lack of sleep was starting to make us all a little loopy.) By the seventh day, our nerves were frayed… but everyone maintained an air of professionalism, and we managed to get the last show in the can just before a summer storm swept into
Afterwards, we all went to John’s house for a late dinner, and sat around talking into the early hours of the morning. It had been an absolutely grueling week, but nobody wanted it to end. Perhaps it was because we couldn’t quite believe what we had accomplished… It’s an amazing thing to realize that you are capable of more than you ever thought you could be.
Before we left
Saturday, January 06, 2007
Sideways Country
Happy New Year!
We rung in 2007 in Santa Ynez Valley, the heart of
Solvang is a “quaint Scandinavian enclave,” founded in 1911 by Danish-Americans from Iowa (!). At first glance, it looks like a theme park… though that observation may be partly due to the fact that, on the day we arrived, the town was completely overrun with Japanese tourists. The clash of cultures was a little disorienting, so we ate quickly at Heidelberg Inn (just down the street from Solvang Restaurant, where Jack and Miles ate), and escaped to adjacent Santa Ines Mission. There is a long brick wall separating the town of
Afterwards, we drove west to Buellton. In “Sideways,” this town – allegedly home of the world’s best split pea soup (if you’re into that sort of thing) – serves as the base of operations for Miles and Jack, who stay at the Windmill Inn overlooking the 101. We weren’t bold enough to stay there ourselves, preferring the creature comforts of the Marriott - conveniently located next to the Firestone Brewery and Buellton Self Storage, which (if I’m not mistaken) is now home to the tree that Jack drives Miles’ car into at the end of the movie.
After we checked into our hotel, we went immediately to our first wine tasting
– at Sanford Winery on
For dinner, we went to The Hitching Post steakhouse, which is down the street from The Windmill Inn on East Highway 246... right next to the ostrich farm. We made reservations well in advance, and it was worth the planning. Restaurant owner and head chef Hartley Ostini designs his own wines – The Highliner Pinot Noir is featured prominently in “Sideways.” (And, accordingly, it's the most expensive wine on the menu.) While all of the wines were good, the best part of our trip to the Hitching Post was undoubtedly the food. Every morsel of food that
the servers placed in front of us was carefully designed to wake up our taste buds. The entire meal was exceptional. On top of all this, the waiters treated us like family. If you’re anywhere within a few hundred miles of this restaurant, it’s well worth the trip. And if you’re going, get there early… wine tastings end at
On Saturday, we headed north to Los Olivos. It’s easy to do a wine tour in Los Olivos because there are seven wineries on one beautiful stretch of road.
We stopped at Fess Parker, named for the star of television’s “Davy Crocket, King of the Wild Frontier.” Immediately, we recognized the lavish tasting room as part of the “
On the way back to Solvang and Buellton, we happened to pass a winery that was open later than the others. They proudly flaunted their connection to the movie “Sideways” on a banner at the front entrance, so we decided to stop. Blackjack Ranch turned out to be our favorite winery… even though they had sold out of their Maximus Syrah, the “killer juice” that Miles drinks in the film. We were most impressed with their Double-Down Syrah.
As it turned out, Buellton shuts down completely on New Years Eve. All of the wineries and brew pubs were closed before nightfall. Presumably, the locals all go to private parties. Tourists have to fend for themselves… which was fine with us. We retreated to our hotel room with a few bottles. When we woke up, it was the start of a new year…
Now if only I could get used to being back at work.
Monday, January 01, 2007
DIMINUENDO
Standing on the edge of
It is possible to wonder
What all the fuss is about.
Thoreau came here to escape the industry of the nineteenth century -
restless, nervous, bustling, trivial nineteenth century
He came to live as deliberately as Nature,
To develop living poetry like the leaves of a tree
Standing at the still point of a turning world.
The Tao Te Ching says that
When men lack a sense of awe,
There will be disaster.
Walden was a refuge
From mechanized life –
A piece of untamed land,
Where the trees had not been cleared,
Where the soil had not been stripped,
And the waters still mirrored
Endless sky.
In the pioneer days of
For forty years on the edge of the prairie.
They made their homes among miles of
Unbroken forest – beech, sweet gum, sycamore,
Oak, pine, magnolia – Tall and slender,
Struggling to reach the sunlight. There,
Where the land was cleared by the touch of God,
The pioneers stopped because the trees stopped.
We can only get a sense of a place
By comparing it to some place we’ve already been.
Cultural identity requires memory.
Cultural identity requires history.
Civilized the ground,
Grave by grave.
Thoreau was simply
Looking for home.
Some say that men and women on the frontier
Have a better chance of knowing a Supreme Being,
A more intuitive understanding of
Prelapsarian majesty, freedom,
The American Dream.
Keep the land,
The older generation says,
They aren’t making any more.
New communities are built on the growth of the soil,
Nourished by blood and bodies.
Our identity comes from those
Who surround and protect us as we age.
This truth cannot be unmade.
It lingers in our bones
Until we become one with the earth –
Our words and spirits are natives,
Absorbed in the landscape.
Part II – Time Past and Time Future
When I was a child,
Death seemed ever-present.
Perhaps it was because the world was new,
Because I myself was new –
A seed of oblivion,
With no remembered experience of continuity.
Insistent reminders of every dissipating second.
They kept me awake all night long,
Fearful that morning would never come.
Precedent meant nothing to me. At the time,
The world was De-substantiation:
Dematerialization, Attenuation, Liquidation, Vaporization…..
Now I know:
Nostalgia for the Past
And Hope for the Future
Exist in Time.
I know
This world was here long before me
And it will be here long after.
In a sense,
I exist only in Time.
Time is the only thing
Not susceptible to Time,
Because Time exists only in the mind
That perceives Before and After,
And allows us to function in the Now –
In a million moments of distraction,
In a million moments of contemplation –
As we struggle to impose order
On our thoughts and impressions,
To find meaning in our lives,
And seek meaning beyond.
Time disappears only when we forget
What we know.
There is only one moment.
Let the world dissipate.
God is day night winter summer
War peace satiety hunger,
Fire mixed with spices
Named according to the scents of each.
I stood on the shore
Of a lake where my ancestors lived.
In a sense, they are still here and,
For me, this is sacred earth –
A fountain of youth. I am
One blood, many bodies,
Divided by Time.
Months later, I fly over the place
Where my ancestors settled
On my way to somewhere else.
From the air, all settlement looks haphazard.
So what am I,
Looking down on those scattered trees
Beside a meandering river – one body of water,
Seemingly arbitrary in its course,
Seemingly arbitrary in its separation from land
And air – a speck of dust?
A reflection?
Arbitrary?
I exist only in the Now-Moment
We call Experience –
Experience of a still lake, a meandering river,
Roots, branches, earth, fire,
A conflagration, a mélange of hope and memory –
All these things in
A single moment,
A single thought,
A seed of oblivion,
Dissipating.
Gone.
This is the moment for which we wait.
Part III – The Awful Daring of a Moment’s Surrender
Headed west,
I am overwhelmed by vastness:
The expanse of the prairie,
The height of the
The depth of the
There no use in trying to explain this feeling.
Words are not fit to the task.
Months or years later,
I will try to remember these first impressions –
But memories of grandeur are fleeting.
Like smoke or spirit.
Instead, I will remember the names
Attached to the peaks and valleys –
Jupiter, Juno, Apollo, Venus
Buddha, Confucius, Osiris, Thor
Names that conjure a less frightening
Feeling of awe.
This moment – when
Myths and legends are
Here and Now – is not here
if we try to hold on to it.
When the Soul knows something,
It loses its unity.
Therefore we must go beyond knowledge,
And hold to unity.
Meister Eckhart says
There is the soul’s day
And God’s day,
And nothing in all creation is so like God
As stillness.
I remember a day, ten years gone, when I was
Standing in an open field
Half a mile from my childhood home,
And a family of deer ran past me
Soundlessly.
It was an ordinary event, but
I am not thinking of the event.
Something in my mind broke loose
Like the tip of a melting iceberg.
I was empty.
Ever since, I have sought proof
That this was not a unique experience.
Others have tried to find words
To dispel the fear that arises from seeing without knowing:
Hears without hearing, thinks without thinking,
Knows without knowing…
But hope that is seen is not hope…
When I pray for nothing, I really pray…
So the darkness shall be the light,
And the stillness the dancing.
When I first saw the sun setting over the Pacific,
I tried to remember when I had first seen the sun rising over the
But memory fails me.
I close my eyes
And imagine sunlight,
The way it dances on the face of the water.
There is nothing else in all the world.
I focus on this
Until the sunlight is gone –
Without fear,
Without hope.


