Showing posts with label Blade Runner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Blade Runner. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 07, 2011

MOVIES MADE ME #32: BLADE RUNNER


The view from the lobby of the Marriott Marquis in Atlanta got me thinking about this film – specifically, the way it transports the viewer to another world. That’s an overused phrase, of course. All worthwhile science fiction films transport the viewer to another world… but not so many of them present that other world in such exquisite detail. I think of the way that Peter Jackson’s LORD OF THE RINGS films capture the encyclopedic minutiae of Tolkien’s Middle Earth, or the way that James Cameron’s AVATAR thoroughly immerses viewers in the 3D environment of Pandora. Ridley Scott’s BLADE RUNNER not only makes it possible to believe in Philip K. Dick’s dystopian future, but nearly impossible NOT to believe in it. Like the Replicants in the story who are built to be “more human than human,” the world of BLADE RUNNER often seems more real than reality.

I think that’s why the film made such a strong impression on me when I first saw it on home video. The visceral experience felt real enough to obsess about, and my friend Ben and I obsessed plenty. Back in the quaint days of Usenet, we used future technology to collect information about alternate versions of the film. The main debate on the Usenet boards: Was Deckard himself a Replicant? The “director’s cut,” released in 1992, fueled the debate. Ridley Scott provided no clear-cut answers, but that was all for the best. Mystery means that there are still more secrets to be discovered, and that’s what makes life (artificial or otherwise) interesting. When the soundtrack by Vangelis was finally released on CD in 1994, I promptly bought a copy and played it on repeat while I slept at night – hoping, I suppose, for dreams that were as wild and elaborate as BLADE RUNNER.

Ridley Scott once said, “To me, a film is like a seven-hundred layer cake… Every incident, every sound, every movement, every color, every set, prop or actor, is all part of the director’s overall orchestration of a film.” Scott’s process began with what he calls “pictorial layering,” as he imagined the post-nuclear dystopia of Philip K. Dick’s novel Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? (The title “Blade Runner” actually came from an unrelated script by William Burroughs, and Scott’s film dispensed with the novelist’s idea that the ultimate status symbol, in the postapocalyptic future, was ownership of a live pet.) Scott‘s agenda was very specific: He sought the tone of Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks” painting, the energy of Jean Giraud’s work for Heavy Metal, and the retro quality of Syd Mead’s Sentinel.




The tone of “Nighthawks” comes across in the opening sequence of the finished film. An eyeball reflects the desperate landscape of 2019 Los Angeles, a city of eternal night, lit only by neon and exhaust flames. Fans call it the “Hades landscape” (and would later see a facsimile of it in the cult hit THE CROW). We don’t know whose eye is watching this landscape, or if the watcher is human… and maybe that’s the point. Right away, there’s a certain coldness about Scott’s storytelling. It’s all about the object seen, not so much about the seer. Scott effectively disembodies us, as viewers, in order to draw us into a world where people are isolated and alienated.



Flying into Los Angeles in 2011 can fill a person with similar sensations. The greater L.A. area is so sprawling and so densely packed, yet so neatly divided into hundreds of smaller communities along invisible lines. Within most of those communities, there is even more division. Last week I wrote about a brief exchange between characters in the war film THE THIN RED LINE. One soldier asks, “Do you ever get lonely?” The other answers, “Only around people.” It’s astounding to think that, in a city of roughly four million people, anyone could ever get lonely. But I think it’s probably easier to get lonely in Los Angeles than in a small town. (In all fairness, it’s probably also easier in L.A. to distract yourself from that loneliness.) I’m likewise reminded of the scene in Michael Mann’s film HEAT, when Robert DeNiro looks out on the city from an apartment balcony above Sunset. Instead of seeing the light as human life, he sees “iridescent algae.” The woman he’s with astutely follows up with a (rhetorical) question: “Are you lonely?” In a city this size, it’s hard not to feel insignificant.

In a way, Philip K. Dick is asking the same question in his novel. His main character, Deckard, is becoming desensitized to human emotion. While hunting androids, he becomes an android himself, according to Dick’s definition. “In my mind,” the author says, “android is a metaphor for people who are physiologically human but behaving in a nonhuman way.” Deckard is a remorseful killer – like a World War II veteran sorting through the moral ambiguities postwar film noir, or a Vietnam veteran among soulless yuppies in Reagan’s America.

Screenwriter David Fancher says that he always intended BLADE RUNNER to be a rebuke of the “cruel politics” of Ronald Reagan, whose presidency marginalized the poor and promoted class conflict. With this idea in mind, Fancher offered his own take on the dynamic between Deckard and the Replicants: The “hero” became a cold-hearted enforcer while the “villains” became sympathetic. Producer Michael Deely went so far as to equate Deckard with “a heartless Nazi commandant” who falls in love with “his beautiful Jewish prisoner” (Rachael). To Scott, the Replicants were more than beautiful prisoners – they were super-humans, an evolutionary leap forward. The visuals of the film reflect a related sense of hope for a future which is frightening yet inspiring. I've always felt that the ultimate human emotion is awe, and BLADE RUNNER certainly conjures a sense of awe.




It has been remarked that Scott’s emphasis on visual storytelling, to say nothing of his apparent admiration for the purity of the Replicants, makes the film seem cold and clinical. On one level, BLADE RUNNER is a story about a man falling in love with an android. At the same time, that man is made to look contemptible by comparison to the androids. He’s slower, weaker, more bigoted, less ethical, and ultimately less interesting. It’s not hard to understand why Harrison Ford found himself at odds with Ridley Scott during the making of the film. BLADE RUNNER tramples his heroic Indiana Jones persona. It even tramples his anti-heroic Han Solo persona. Though Deckard is supposed to be the human at the center of the story, he sometimes seems like the least human character in the film. (Then again, to be fair, MANY of Ford’s subsequent roles have been even more emotionally vacant than Deckard… so I’m not inclined to place the blame entirely with Ridley Scott.)

In the theatrical cut, Ford has to deliver the following line of narration: “Sushi – that’s what my ex-wife called me. Cold fish.” It’s meant to be a self-effacing joke in the slightly misogynistic tradition of film noir detectives but it seems more like a filmmaker’s condemnation of his main character. Deckard IS a cold fish. Even when he puts the moves on Rachael, he’s so unnecessarily aggressive that he seems to hate himself for it. When he shoots Zhora in the back, he seems more dazed than remorseful.

By comparison, Rutger Hauer is all too human. He is Nietzsche’s superman, who willingly plays the role of God – killing his creator with his bare hands, but not without a sense of profound loss for this liberation. He knows that he has done “questionable things,” but he accepts responsibility, and with a sense of whimsy. The actor confides, “The best trick Ridley played with Roy and the other replicants was that he told us early on – the androids, that is, Daryl Hannah and Joanna Cassidy and Brion James and myself – to relax and be comfortable. To have fun and to make the replicants likable. And we did. That, I think, is their underlying appeal.” As a result, the Replicants – especially Hauer’s Roy Batty and Daryl Hannah’s occasionally childlike Pris – are truly more human than human. It is Batty who teaches the “hero” about ethics (“Not very sporting to fire on an unarmed opponent… Aren’t you the Good Man?) and the value of life.

Hauer’s partially improvised “tears in rain” speech remains the coup de grace of the film. This living creature with a heightened intelligence understands, in his final moments, what few humans are willing to acknowledge: All of the unique moments that we witness, in the particular way that we experience and understand them, will die with us. In essence, part of the world dies with us. Part of the world dies every day. Every second. The converse is also true. The world is constantly being reborn. That’s why Batty saves Deckard. In the process, he makes Deckard a better human being. It is an android who teaches the human to recognize the beauty of life.

That, says Ridley Scott, is the only worthwhile jumping-off point for a sequel (which, according to Hollywood rumor, is currently in the works): “If Deckard was the ‘piece de resistance’ of the replicant business – ‘more human than human,’ as Tyrell would say – with all the complexities suggested by that accomplishment, then a Nexus-7 would, by definition, have to be replication’s perfection. Physically, this would mean that the Tyrell Corporation would be prudent in having Deckard be of normal human strength but extended lifespan – resistance to disease, etc. Then, to round off their creation, the perfect Nexus-7 would have to be endowed with a conscience. Which would in turn suggest some kind of need for a faith. Spiritual need. Or a spiritual implant, in other words.”



[All quotes are taken from Paul M. Sammon’s remarkable book FUTURE NOIR: THE MAKING OF BLADE RUNNER. If you have any interest in the film, you owe it to yourself to check out this book.]

Friday, October 31, 2008

Inside the House on Haunted Hill

Through a bit of luck, I managed to get access to Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous Ennis House in the Hollywood Hills, which has been closed to the public for some time. Talk about a perfect Halloween present! Movie lovers may recognize this architectural masterpiece as the House on Haunted Hill (from William Castle’s 1958 shocker with Vincent Price), or as Harrison Ford’s apartment in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Steve Martin’s house in Grand Canyon, or Angel’s hideaway in the TV series Buffy the Vampire Slayer. Certainly, this is the kind of setting that sticks in one’s mind. Even if it hadn’t been featured in countless films, TV shows and commercials, the Ennis House would still be instantly recognizable – where else can you see a modern-day Mayan temple juxtaposed with some of the biggest skyscrapers in the world?

A little history: The 1924 home of Charles & Mabel Ennis is one of four concrete block houses in L.A. that were designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Each of these houses appears to rise from the land, an organic extension of the mountainous landscape. The four corners narrow slightly at the top, adding to the illusion of ascent. The Ennis House also features quite a bit of “art glass,” including an original mosaic over the fireplace. According to our tour guide, the house was built as more as a showpiece than as actual living quarters. Over the years, some pretty wild parties have been held here – though nothing quite on par with Vincent Price's birthday bash.

These days, the Ennis house is more peaceful, having fallen into the custodial care of a foundation dedicated to preserving it for (in Frank Lloyd Wright’s own words) “lovers of the beautiful.” It is truly one of the most breathtaking sights in Los Angeles, and deserves to be saved for future generations to see.

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!























Sunday, May 04, 2008

El Pueblo de Los Angeles

Despite numerous posts about the history of Los Angeles, I’ve somehow managed to overlook its oldest neighborhood. So yesterday we headed for El Pueblo de Los Angeles – a small, multicultural enclave on the north end of downtown.

This neighborhood on the banks of the L.A. River was founded in 1781 – on orders from the Spanish king – by a group of families from the San Gabriel Mission. The settlers consisted of 11 men, 11 women, and 22 children of Spanish, African and “mulatto” descent. They called their new home “El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora Reina de los Ángeles sobre El Rio Porciuncula” (“The Town of Our Lady Queen of the Angels over the Porciuncula River”). Initially, the town was clustered around the Old Plaza Catholic Church, which still stands on the west side of North Main Street. Later, the focus shifted to nearby Olvera Street, the heart of the Mexican community and site of this weekend’s Cinco de Mayo festivities.

The main tourist attraction in the neighborhood is the Avila Adobe, the oldest residence in Los Angeles – built in 1818 (nearly a decade before Mexico won its independence from Spain) by Mexican cattle rancher Don Francisco Avila. Avila’s descendants lived in the house until 1868 – with the exception of a short period of time during the Mexican-American War, when it was used as a U.S. military headquarters. The house passed through a number of hands in the following decades, and was eventually abandoned and condemned in the late 1920s. It was slowly brought back to life in the following decade, when it became a center of activity for the Mexican community.

Today, it’s hard to imagine the area surrounding the Avila Adobe (downtown Los Angeles) as open grazing land. A few weeks ago, we visited Rancho Los Cerritos in Long Beach, and I had a hard enough time imagining that area without all the roads and houses. The docent told us that Los Cerritos was a full day’s ride (by horse) from El Pueblo de Los Angeles, and that there was very little in between the two ranches. This is hard to fathom in a city of 4 million people. Still, there’s something magical about standing in the courtyards outside these two old houses – the walls are just high enough that you find your mind drifting into the past.

Not far from the Avila Adobe are several other historic landmarks: the Pelanconi House (the oldest brick house in Los Angeles, built in 1850), Pico House (the first luxury hotel in Los Angeles, finished in 1870), and the first Los Angeles fire station (built in 1884). On the other side of Alameda Street are the Post Office Terminal Annex, where author Charles Bukowski worked for many years, and Union Station, known to movie geeks like me as the futuristic police station in Ridley Scott’s movie “Blade Runner.”

El Pueblo de Los Angeles - 1869 (photo from of the Los Angeles Public Library)

Old Plaza Catholic Church

Olvera Street

Avila Adobe

Los Cerritos

Pelanconi House

Pico House

Fire House #1

Bukowski’s Post Office

Union Station

filming area inside Union Station

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Griffith Park - Take Two

A few months ago, we went to Griffith Park to see the Old Los Angeles Zoo. Unfortunately, the entire southeast section of the park was closed due to last summer’s wildfire. Griffith has been slowly recovering ever since - the main road that cuts through the center of the park is still closed. Many of the hiking trails finally reopened in January, then got closed again after unexpected rains caused mudslides. Yesterday was the first truly warm day Los Angeles has had for a few weeks, so it seemed like an opportune time to try again.

We decided to enter the park from Los Feliz, east of Bronson Canyon and the Hollywood sign. On the way, we stopped to marvel at the Ennis House in Glendower Avenue. The Ennis House is probably the most famous house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in the city of Los Angeles – owing to the fact that it has appeared in a number of hugely successful films and TV shows. Built in 1924, the house made one of its earliest appearances in the 1958 William Castle schlocker “The House on Haunted Hill.” It was featured as the titular home of eccentric millionaire Fredrick Loren (played by Vincent Price), who held an unusual overnight party inside. It later appeared as a filmmaker’s residence in the 1975 adaptation of the quintessential Hollywood novel “The Day of the Locust,” as Deckard’s apartment building in Ridley Scott's “Blade Runner” (1982), and as Angel’s gothic pad in the TV series “Buffy the Vampire Slayer.” Perhaps least notably, it was the home of Thomas Ian Griffith’s manipulative martial arts instructor in “The Karate Kid Part III” (1989), a film that featured the house’s incredible view of downtown Los Angeles.

The Ennis house, like Griffith Park, has been threatened recently by both wildfires and mudslides. In 1994, the Northridge earthquake caused significant damage to the southern retaining wall, prompting the National Trust for Historic Preservation to put the house on its 11 Most Endangered list. In 2005, the Ennis House Foundation was formed to raise money for restoration and, thanks to them, the house is no longer in immanent danger. Hopefully, it will be reopened to the public in the near future.

I was surprised to see that the Old Zoo in Griffith Park was also in relatively good shape, as I'd assumed that the fire had reached it. There haven’t been any animals in the cages since 1965, but there have been plenty of filmmakers in there. When I first moved to Los Angeles and got interested in seeking out film locations, I read an article in the L.A. Times saying that “Zoltan, Hound of Dracula” (1978) was filmed here. I’ve never seen “Zoltan, Hound of Dracula,” (if any blog readers can comment on this one, I’d LOVE to hear about it), nor do I plan to. I can already fully appreciate the creepiness of the setting.

The old lion cages are now an elaborate picnic grounds (though they were briefly re-converted to lion cages for the 2004 movie “Anchorman” with Will Farrell). Just behind the walls are a series of long, steep stairwells, leading to dark, empty storage rooms that look like they belong in Candyman's Cabrini Green.

Lest you get the idea that this section of Griffith Park is not family-friendly, I should point out the nearby Merry-Go-Round. Constructed in 1926, the carousel supposedly served as the inspiration for Disneyland. According to Griffith Park historian Mike Eberts, Walt Disney brought his daughters here and started dreaming...

Further north, on the way out of the park, there’s another big attraction for kiddies and film geeks. The miniature railroad at Los Angeles Live Steamers is where Steve Martin wooed Bernadette Peters in “The Jerk” (1979). The train operators offer free rides (to geeks of all ages) on Sundays, from 11am to 3pm.

So there you have it. From the house on haunted hill to 1/8 scale trains. Fun for the whole family.

Ennis House (view from the south - featuring the fully restored retaining wall)

(a more familiar vantage point)

These textile blocks form all the outside walls of Frank Lloyd Wright's modern Mayan temple

View from the front patio.

Griffith Park - coming back to life

Old Los Angeles Zoo













Sunday, August 19, 2007

Downtown Los Angeles, Part 1: The Broadway Theater District

Since we moved to Los Angeles, I’ve been collecting books about the city: travel guides, history books, and novels alike. It started when my brother and his wife bought me a copy of "L.A. Bizarro," a 1997 book that offers readers a voyeuristic tour of “the obscure, the absurd and the perverse” in Los Angeles – bringing casual curiosity-seekers to places that they may not want to physically visit. A fair amount of those sites are in historic downtown, where (as the authors put it) “what was once the bustling nerve center of our city is now… a crumbling, putrefied, God-forsaken wasteland.”

Anthony R. Lovett and Matt Maranian approach most of their downtown destinations with a mix of admiration and revulsion. Take, for example, their description of Clifton’s Cafeteria, one of the original theme restaurants: “The Clifton’s décor looks like the kind of hallucination a glue sniffer might have if he used pine-scented air freshener instead of model airplane cement. The main wall inside Clifton’s stretches two stories high and is painted floor to ceiling to look like a forest clearing complete with cedar tree trunk relief and an illumined full moon… If you’re thinking of ending your life, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more beautifully macabre setting than in Clifton’s.” Don’t even get them started on the food.

The only overwhelmingly complimentary entry in the entire book is a four-page spread for the Los Angeles Conservancy Walking Tours. For years, the Conservancy has been dedicated to preserving the architectural history of downtown Los Angeles, and every Saturday they offer tours of the city’s forgotten center. The most popular tour is one that focuses on the old theater district, a seven-block section of Broadway (between Third Street and Olympic Boulevard) that became home to a dozen major theaters between 1910 and 1931. In the late 1920s, a new theater district popped up on Hollywood Boulevard (now L.A.’s most notorious tourist trap), but the downtown theater district remained relatively popular until the 1960s, when theaters in Westwood began to draw the crowds away. Most of the Broadway theaters continued to operate as grindhouses through the 1980s. In 1997, when “L.A. Bizarro” went to press, only three of the original theaters were open to the public. Ten years later, none of them are operating as movie houses. The best way to see those historic theaters today is to take the Conservancy tour.

SO at 10AM on Saturday, we arrived at The Million Dollar Theater on the corner of Broadway and 3rd Street, to get started. The Million Dollar Theater was commissioned by Sid Grauman, who later built the famous Chinese Theater on Hollywood Boulevard, in 1918. The MDT was designed in a Spanish Baroque style characterized by extreme decorative detailing, especially over doorways. The interior is equally striking, partly because of elaborate details on the ceiling and walls (there are two huge terra-cotta sculptures, on either side of the stage, that incorporate the skulls of dead animals) and partly because of the steepness of the seating arrangement. Not knowing much about architecture, the place seemed vaguely medieval to me. With all the warm colors, it even made me think of Dante’s Inferno.

Across the street, we made an unofficial stop at another distopian setting: The Bradbury. The Bradbury is the oldest commercial building in Los Angeles. Built in 1893, it was designed by a man who took his inspiration from a novel about a utopian community in the year 2000. The novel – Edward Bellamy’s “Looking Backward” – describes the average commercial building in the community as a "vast hall full of light, received not alone from the windows on all sides, but from the dome, the point of which was a hundred feet above ... The walls and ceiling were frescoed in mellow tints, calculated to soften without absorbing the light which flooded the interior." Film geeks know that the Bradbury was not a “vast hall of light” when it appeared as J.F. Sebastian’s home in Ridley Scott’s film “Blade Runner,” which is set in 2019 Los Angeles. In "Blade Runner," it’s always night. (I guess the smog finally eclipsed the sun???) For more photos, see this website. For comparisons to screen shots from "Blade Runner," go here.

Afterwards, we headed south down Broadway. Lovett and Maranian have written a more vivid description of this section of town than I could come up with, so I’ll let them set the scene: “Trekking through the dense and chaotic street scene of downtown Los Angeles on a Saturday is an experience unto itself. The noise level alone is enough to make a reasonably sane person tear off all their clothes and run screaming down the middle of Broadway; the oppressive din from the abundance of audio-video stores and mega-arcades is matched only by the barkers in front of jewelry shops and the pushy street vendors peddling everything from Selina T-shirts and electroplated gold chains, to live turtles and home-grown produce. On virtually every street corner is stationed a toothless wheelchair-bound religious zealot screaming passages from the Bible, as well as non-religious zealots who stand on the street corners screaming simply because they just have a lot to say to the world. A multitude of languages are spoken here, and fortunately English isn’t one of them; that the cacophony of Broadway is indistinguishable is its only saving grace.”

We saw and heard (and smelled) all of the things that one expects in downtown L.A., but it was all fairly subdued this weekend, perhaps due to an overwhelming police presence. Bike cops were out in droves, preparing for an immigration protest march. Police presence or no, I’m going to give the merchants and residents of Broadway the benefit of the doubt, and assume that they are never quite as forbidding as the stories usually suggest. (While writing this post, I ran across a blog that tirelessly laments the current condition of nearby Pershing Square… but, while it had more than its fair share of homeless people asleep on the benches, it still seemed quite safe and was a beautiful bit of greenery in the midst of the asphalt jungle.) When we arrived at a block of theaters between 5th and 6th Street, business owners happily let us inside to see the remains of The Roxie, Clune’s Broadway Cameo, and Pantages Arcade – three theaters that now exist only as storefronts and storage spaces.

The Roxie was one of the last theaters built on Broadway, and it’s not nearly as opulent as some of the other theaters. In fact, it looks more like the movie theaters that modern audiences are accustomed to – box-shaped rather than bowl-shaped, a very gradual incline from front to back, minimal decoration, and…. air conditioning. Well, sort of. There are holes in the floor, just inside of the main walkway, to allow for the flow of air from an underground storage space. Somehow, it works to keep the space relatively cool. The theater also has a “crying room” next to the projection booth – where mothers with babies could watch the show. Now, there’s something that I wish modern theaters had. Next door, Clunes is equally simple. Built in 1910, it was the oldest continuously operating movie theater in the state until 1991, when the lobby was converted into an electronics store.

On the next block, we stopped outside the Los Angeles Theater and the Orpheum Palace. The Los Angeles allegedly boasts the most elaborate interior of all the Broadway theaters, decorated in the French Baroque style. Our tour guide said that even the bathrooms are a sight to behold – each stall is made from a different color marble! The Los Angeles is frequently used for filming, and was the site of two screenings for this year’s annual “last remaining seats” film festival, run by the Conservancy. The marquee is still promoting the revival of “Yankee Doodle Dandy.” Unfortunately, it wasn’t open for the Saturday morning tour… so I had to turn to the theater’s website to get a look inside.

Across the street, the Orpheum Palace was also locked up (once again, I had to go to the theater’s website to find interior photos), though the exterior was in better shape than it has been in years. Just last week, the front façade was power-washed for the first time since the building was constructed in 1911 – revealing lively colors that have been covered with dust and grime for the better part of the century. The Palace operated as a movie theater until 2000, and when the authors of “L.A. Bizarro” visited in 1997, they recorded a bit of controversial trivia: “The stately French and Italian influences of the 2,200 seat auditorium are eerily offset by its racially segregated balcony – a creepy feature not entirely uncommon among these early vaudeville houses. Accessible only from an entrance in the alley, this segregated section was location in the second balcony no less, offering both the worst view and the hottest, stuffiest seating to be had in the theater.”

Continuing south, we reached what was once the busiest intersection downtown – 7th and Broadway, the terminus of the fabled Route 66. Because of its location on this particular corner, Loew’s State Theater was once the area’s most profitable theater. Built in 1921 and originally owned by Marcus Loew, founder of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM), it was supposedly the first performance venue for Judy Garland, who appeared onstage in 1929 as one of the singing Gumm Sisters. Today, The State is home to a church congregation that keeps it in good shape. Unfortunately, there was a big wedding there on Saturday morning, so we were confined to the lobby. The Morosco (also known as The Globe), on the other side of the street, has not fared as well. It is now a noisy arcade.

On the next block, between 8th and 9th Street, there are three more theaters sitting side-by-side: The Tower, The Rialto, and The Orpheum. This block is recognizable from the new “Transformers” movie – it’s where the peace-loving Autobots square off against the evil Decepticons. The block also has a much older cinematic claim to fame: Harold Lloyd hung from a clock above The Rialto in his 1923 film “Safety Last!” Not much is left of The Rialto except the name.

In 1997, The Orpheum was apparently a grim sight – “home to whatever transient sets up camp inside the tiled portico,” according to “L.A. Bizarro.” Since then, new owner Steve Needleman has undertaken a 3.5 million dollar restoration, and The Orpheum is now a popular venue for concerts. Needleman kindly met us at the door and took us inside for a tour. And the place was amazing! It’s hard to get a sense of the grandeur of the old movie palace by looking at photos… the photos on The Orpheum’s official website do a much better job than my quick snapshots.

Because the immigration protest was about to start, we had to cut our tour short and head north. A quick glance down Broadway, however, gave us a glimpse of the official theater of United Artists – the production company founded in 1919 by D.W. Griffith, Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks and Charlie Chaplin (and recently taken over by Tom Cruise). After a brief stint as a porn house and a panaderia that made use of the theater’s auditorium and lobby as the exhaust duct for large ovens (!), the UA Theater is now a church.

The Conservancy’s walking tour program features one photo of the interior of the United Artists Theater, and makes it look like a forbidding ice world in some elaborate fantasy epic. This is obviously the kind of theater that prompts people to complain that “they don’t make ‘em like they used to.” Stepping into some of these theaters is like stepping into the world of the most imaginative Hollywood films – everything is larger than life. Although it’s a bit sad to see how far some of these historic theaters have fallen, I have to agree with our Conservancy tour guide when he says “at least they’re still there, so that we can stand inside them and imagine what it was like…”

The Los Angeles Conservancy Tour of the Broadway Theater District is only $10 per person (for non-members) and worth every penny. To make reservations, call 213-623-2489 or visit their website. If you can't visit the theaters in person, there are a number of websites featuring photo essays of the district, including GMRnet.

The Million Dollar Theater

The Million Dollar Theater - side door

The Bradbury

The Bradbury - lobby

Looking up toward Sebastian’s apartment

The Roxie - exterior

The Roxie - interior

The Palace & The Los Angeles

The State

The Tower


The Rialto (all that's left is the sign)

The Orpheum - lobby

The Orpheum - first floor

The Orpheum - balcony

United Artists in the background, riot prevention in the foreground